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Roganic, Marylebone

December 21, 2012

I was so excited to go to Roganic, and I’m extremely late in updating this (I went there more than 6 months ago, in June!) so I’ll preface this post by saying that it’s a two year pop-up restaurant and it was fantastic, so if you have the same tastes in food as I do, please make a booking before you have to make the trek to Cumbria to eat at L’Enclume, Simon Rogan’s other restaurant.

Initially, we had planned on having their £29 set lunch menu (3 courses), but the waitress placed the menus on the table and we couldn’t help but give in to the temptation of their 6 course menu. At £55,  it has been my most expensive meal to date, but it was worth every penny. We didn’t have wine, but you can select wine pairings for a reasonable price.

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First placed in front of us were little nibbles. The beetroot crisps with goat’s cheese curd and fennel was gorgeous to look at; I hated the beetroot + goat’s cheese pairing when I’d tried it as a mousse at Texture, but here it was beautiful. The cheese wasn’t too overpowering, and the dehydrated beetroot was crisp and sweet.

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Next, smoked eel and pork belly croquettes came in a little Staub pot lined with hay.

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The bed came in a little wooden tray with a smear of butter. I’m not sure where the butter was from, but it appeared to be whipped and it was cold and creamy. I love it when butter is cold yet spreadable!

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Our first course was carrot mousse, ham fat, pickled celery, crispy bacon, wild basil. Wild basil, we were told, tastes oddly meaty. It almost tasted like bacon! The mousse was light and sweet and complemented the meaty elements perfectly. Unfortunately I couldn’t pick up much of the celery, but I’m not a fan of celery (actually, I’m a hardcore celery hater) so maybe it wasn’t such a bad thing.

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I think this might have been my favourite course of the day. Sweet pickled mushrooms, mushroom broth, buffalo milk curd. I’ve never thought to pair mushrooms and sweet flavours together, but this really worked for me. My friend didn’t enjoy it as much, but the meaty crumbs and the broth helped bring the dish to a more savoury dimension. The milk curd was great; it reminded me of the steamed milk pudding we get back in Hong Kong!

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The third course came straight from the sea: sea scallop, sea purslane, sea vegetables, oyster emulsion, diced oysters, green apple. The scallop portion was a bit measly, but cooked perfectly so it was just translucent in the middle. The oyster component gave the whole dish the slight bitter, metallic edge it needed to lift the brininess of the sea vegetables and the tartness of the apple.

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The next fish course was simply put together, but it was a textural playground: seared lemon sole paired with wobbly, smoked bone marrow, chewy buckwheat and dehydrated tomato, all finished with a bone marrow jus.
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Sous vide duck breast, mulled cider jus, icicle radish, mace. Another simple dish, not knockout or stunning, but the duck was a beautiful pink colour and still had a bit of chew to it, which I prefer to fork-tender meat.

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Strawberry meringue, macerated strawberries, yoghurt ice cream, buttermilk curd. I really enjoyed this dessert; it was a celebration of the British summer to come (which, sadly, only showed up for a few days). Here, the tang of the curd and yoghurt ice cream tempered the sweetness of the macerated strawberries well.

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We had more surprises next: milkshake infused with douglas fir pine and a lemon curd doughnut. I didn’t know if we were supposed to dip the doughnut into the milkshake, but they were really fun to eat separately anyway. The milkshake didn’t feel like a traditional shake made from ice cream, but it had a wonderfully refreshing flavour from the pine.

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Lastly, we were given frozen chocolate bourbon candies covered with white chocolate. This was such a fun way to end the meal on a high note!

If you can’t tell, I absolutely loved Roganic. The service was impeccable, not stuffy at all and didn’t look down on us for not having wine – and when a neighbouring table didn’t eat their chocolate bourbon candies (for what reason, I do not know), the waitress let us take the rest! The restaurant decor isn’t anything special; it’s spartan inside, but what really counts here is the food and service. I hope Simon Rogan somehow extends this pop-up restaurant so we can experience this again for a special occasion.

Roganic
19 Blandford Street, London W1U 3DH

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One Comment leave one →
  1. December 21, 2012 8:09 am

    Reblogged this on andinindut.

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